Everything you need to know about the insulation options we install so you can make the right choice for your home.
A soft, spongy foam that expands dramatically after application filling every crack, gap, and cavity it touches. It's the go-to choice for interior applications where soundproofing and air sealing are the priorities.
Open-cell is a great choice for interior walls, floors between living spaces, and large areas where soundproofing matters. For exterior walls and conditioned attics here in Georgia, we usually recommend closed-cell instead, since our hot and humid summers require a stronger moisture barrier. We'll tell you which one makes sense for your specific home.
Expands to fill every crack and gap in walls and ceilings, stopping drafts, outside allergens, and energy loss at the source.
The soft, spongy foam absorbs sound extremely well. Rooms feel quieter, and outside noise stays outside.
Costs roughly half as much per square foot, making it the more budget-friendly spray foam option for large interior areas.
Allows walls to dry out naturally if moisture ever gets in, which helps prevent trapped moisture and mold over time.
Once fully hardened (24 to 48 hours after spraying), open-cell foam is completely inert. No ongoing fumes or chemicals in your home.
Works around pipes, electrical boxes, and irregular framing that rigid board insulation simply cannot reach.
Open-cell spray foam starts as a liquid and is sprayed directly onto surfaces. Within seconds, it expands to roughly 100 times its original size, filling the entire cavity including odd shapes, gaps around pipes, and hard-to-reach corners. Once it hardens, it forms a soft but firm barrier that seals air and slows heat transfer.
The foam is "open-cell" meaning the tiny bubbles inside are connected, which makes it softer and more flexible than closed-cell foam. That also means air can move through it very slowly, which is why it provides slightly less insulation per inch. But for the right applications, it does an excellent job at a lower cost.
After it cures, we trim it flush with the framing so drywall or paint can go right over it, just like a normal wall.
Before we spray, we suit up in protective gear and make sure the area is properly ventilated. We seal off the work area and protect any surfaces that aren't being insulated. The foam is applied in passes, and the whole job typically takes one to two days from start to finish.
You, your family, and your pets will need to be out of the home for at least 24 hours while the foam finishes hardening. We will give you a specific time before we leave so there is no guessing. Most families are back home the next morning with no issues.
While the foam is hardening, it releases fumes that are not safe to breathe. This is normal and temporary. Once it is fully cured, the foam is completely safe and there are no ongoing fumes. We will confirm the all-clear time with you before we pack up.
When you reach out, we will schedule a free walk-through of your home at a time that works for you. We come out, take a look at the areas you want insulated, check for anything that might affect the job like existing insulation, air gaps, or moisture issues, and give you a straight honest recommendation. No pressure, no hard sell.
If you decide to move forward, we will schedule the installation, show up on time, do the work the right way, and clean up completely when we are done. Most jobs are finished within one to three days. We will walk you through everything before we leave so you know exactly what was done and why.
The highest-performing insulation product available. Closed-cell foam is rigid, dense, and completely impermeable to water and air delivering maximum R-value in the thinnest possible profile.
Georgia summers are hot and humid, which means moisture management is just as important as keeping the heat out. Closed-cell foam does both at once. It keeps the heat out and stops humid outdoor air from getting inside your walls and attic where it can cause mold and rot over time. For exterior walls, crawl spaces, and attic conversions, this is the product we reach for first.
Provides an R-value of 6 to 7 per inch. R-value measures how well insulation resists heat. Higher is better, and closed-cell delivers more of it in less space than anything else.
Acts as a full barrier against water vapor and liquid water. This is critical in Georgia where humid outdoor air can condense inside walls and cause mold and structural damage over time.
The rigid foam bonds to your wall framing and actually makes your home more resistant to wind. A real benefit in Georgia storm season.
Dense and rigid enough that insects and rodents have a very hard time getting through. A genuine advantage here in Georgia where pests are a year-round concern.
Unlike other insulation types, closed-cell foam does not absorb water. If a pipe leaks or flooding occurs, walls insulated with closed-cell can often be dried out and saved.
The higher upfront cost typically comes back in lower energy bills within a few years, especially in attics and exterior walls where heat gain and loss are greatest.
Closed-cell spray foam is sprayed on as a liquid and expands to about 30 times its size. Unlike open-cell foam, the tiny bubbles it forms are completely sealed off from each other, which makes the finished product rigid and dense. That density is what gives it such strong insulating and moisture-blocking performance.
Because it is so dense, it provides more insulation per inch than any other spray-applied product. That matters a lot in tight spaces like cathedral ceilings or attic roof decks where you do not have room to pile on thick layers.
We apply it in thin passes, letting each layer cool before adding the next. This is the right way to do it. Some contractors rush this step, which causes the foam to overheat and crack. We never do that.
The process is similar to open-cell, but we work in thinner, more careful passes because closed-cell foam expands less and hardens faster. This takes more time but ensures the foam cures correctly and delivers the full insulation value you are paying for.
Most jobs take one to three days depending on how much area we are covering. You will need to be out of the home for 24 hours after we finish. We will confirm that time with you before we leave.
Some contractors spray closed-cell thinner than it should be to save on materials. We measure the thickness on every job and document it. To properly insulate a standard wall, you need about 2 inches of closed-cell foam. We never cut that short.
When you reach out, we will schedule a free walk-through of your home at a time that works for you. We come out, take a look at the areas you want insulated, check for anything that might affect the job like existing insulation, air gaps, or moisture issues, and give you a straight honest recommendation. No pressure, no hard sell.
If you decide to move forward, we will schedule the installation, show up on time, do the work the right way, and clean up completely when we are done. Most jobs are finished within one to three days. We will walk you through everything before we leave so you know exactly what was done and why.
Loose-fill insulation blown by machine into attics, wall cavities, and floors. The most affordable way to achieve significant insulation improvements especially in existing homes where retrofit is the goal.
Blown-in insulation is great at slowing heat transfer, but it does not seal air leaks on its own. If your attic has gaps around light fixtures, plumbing, or where walls meet the ceiling, we will address those first before blowing in insulation. Skipping that step is one of the most common mistakes in the industry and it leaves a lot of your energy savings on the table. We always check and we always tell you what we find.
Significantly less expensive than spray foam, making it the right call when budget matters or when you are covering a large area like a full attic.
Can be added to your attic without touching your ceilings or walls. For existing walls, we drill small holes, fill the space, and patch everything back up.
The loose material works its way around joists, pipes, and electrical boxes naturally, filling spaces that sheet insulation simply cannot reach.
Fiberglass does not absorb water, so it will not grow mold or lose its insulating value in humid conditions common in Georgia homes.
Most attic jobs are finished in a single day with very little disruption to the rest of your home.
Unlike spray foam, there is no curing period. Your family can come back home as soon as we are done.
We use a machine that breaks up the insulation material and blows it through a hose directly into your attic or wall cavities. In an open attic, we guide the hose across the floor and build up the material to the right depth. For walls, we drill small holes between each stud space, fill the cavity completely, then patch and paint the holes. Most homeowners cannot tell anything was done once the paint dries.
The material settles slightly over time, which is normal. We always install it a little deeper than the target to account for that so your home ends up exactly where it should be.
When you reach out, we will schedule a free walk-through of your home at a time that works for you. We come out, take a look at the areas you want insulated, check for anything that might affect the job like existing insulation, air gaps, or moisture issues, and give you a straight honest recommendation. No pressure, no hard sell.
If you decide to move forward, we will schedule the installation, show up on time, do the work the right way, and clean up completely when we are done. Most jobs are finished within one to three days. We will walk you through everything before we leave so you know exactly what was done and why.
A complete moisture-control system for your home's crawlspace. A heavy-duty vapor barrier seals the floor and walls, vents are closed, and a dehumidifier keeps conditions stable year-round — stopping mold, rot, pests, and energy loss at the source.
Coweta and Fayette County homes deal with hot, humid summers and ground moisture year-round. An open or vented crawlspace pulls that humid air directly up through your floors into your living space — bringing mold spores, allergens, and energy loss with it. The EPA estimates that up to 40% of the air you breathe on your first floor comes from your crawlspace. Encapsulation stops that at the source.
A reinforced vapor barrier covers every inch of soil and foundation walls, blocking ground moisture from entering your home. This is the most effective way to eliminate crawlspace humidity.
By keeping relative humidity below 60%, encapsulation eliminates the conditions that allow mold and structural wood rot to develop — protecting your floor joists and subfloor for decades.
Sealed crawlspaces reduce heating and cooling costs by 10–20% by eliminating conditioned air loss through the floor. Your HVAC system runs less and lasts longer.
Prevents mold spores, allergens, radon, and soil gases from rising into your living space through the stack effect — the natural upward airflow in any home.
A properly sealed crawlspace eliminates the dark, damp environment that termites, rodents, and other pests seek out. Encapsulation removes their entry points and removes the habitat they need.
A clean, dry, encapsulated crawlspace is a selling point. Home inspectors and buyers notice it. An unprotected crawlspace with visible moisture or mold can delay or derail a sale entirely.
We start with a thorough inspection of your crawlspace — checking for existing moisture damage, mold, pest activity, and drainage issues. Any problems we find get addressed before the liner goes down, because encapsulating over an existing problem traps it.
Next, we lay the vapor barrier. We use a 12–20 mil reinforced polyethylene liner across every inch of the crawlspace floor, running it up and attaching it to the foundation walls. Seams are overlapped and taped with vapor-bond tape so there are no gaps. Foundation vents are sealed to prevent outside air from re-entering the conditioned space.
Finally, we install a crawlspace dehumidifier sized for your specific space. This keeps humidity at a controlled level year-round regardless of outdoor conditions. Most installations are completed in one to two days, and we clean up completely when we are done.
We schedule a free crawlspace walk-through at your home. We look at the current condition of your crawlspace, check for moisture damage, mold, pest activity, and anything that could affect the job. We give you a straight honest assessment of what is happening down there and exactly what we recommend — no pressure, no hard sell.
If you move forward, we will schedule the installation, show up on time, do the work the right way, and leave everything clean. We will walk you through what we did and what to expect before we leave. Most encapsulation jobs are complete within one to two days.
All four products compared across the factors that matter most to homeowners.
| Factor | Open-Cell Foam | Closed-Cell Foam | Blown-In | Crawlspace Encap. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| R-Value per inch | 3.5 | 6–7 | 3.2–3.8 | N/A (vapor barrier) |
| Cost per sq ft | $1.85–$2.15 | $1.55–$1.85/sq ft/in | $2.00–$2.30 | $3.50–$7.50 |
| Air sealing | Excellent | Excellent | Poor (needs supplemental sealing) | Good (seals vents & foundation) |
| Vapor barrier | No | Yes (Class II) | No | Yes (primary function) |
| Soundproofing | Excellent | Good | Moderate | Minimal |
| Water resistance | Poor | Excellent | Moderate | Excellent (core purpose) |
| Structural benefit | None | Yes adds rigidity | None | Protects wood structure |
| Re-entry time | 24 hours | 24 hours | Immediate | Same day |
| Best for existing homes | Yes | Yes | Excellent | Excellent |
| Best for new construction | Excellent | Excellent | Good (attics) | Excellent |
| Pest resistance | Moderate | Excellent | Good | Excellent (seals entry points) |
| Eco-friendly | Moderate | Lower | Moderate | Moderate |
| Lifespan | Life of home | Permanent | 20–30 years | 15–20 years |